Tasteful decor and perfectly concocted cocktails set the mood, but flavourful dishes free of frou-frou speak for themselves at this Euro-style bistro. Ken Crawford sips a made-to-order gin martini (stirred, with an olive).
After weeks of Vietnamese food, it’s nice to splurge a little on some Western-style fare, though at Bleu de Thuy a few Asian influences are certainly noticeable and add a degree of flare to very European dishes.
Owned by Fosto Psora, Bleu de Thuy is a bistro that as a result of some soft lighting, non-intrusive waiters and a very good gin martini is splendidly quaint for intimate dining. It’s set slightly aback from the ever-animated Tong Duy Tan Street in downtown Ha Noi, and creates a private, unassuming space for people to have a quiet drink or go on a date.
 Summertime fare: For something light at Bleu de Thuy, try the sea bass and shrimp with brandade mashed potatoes and salsa verde. The strong cocktails aside, the food is exquisite, thanks in large part to Psora’s years as a chef in a number of top restaurants around the world. The main dish to order, in my humble opinion, is the baron rabbit with prunes and stuffed leg, which goes well with either of the restaurant’s two house red wines. The rabbit is supple and almost falling off the bone when it arrives at the table. Still today, I am surprised to hear that many people have never tried rabbit, which is unfortunate because it is such a wonderful meat for vegetable stews or straight on the grill with a pinch of salt, no pepper. At Bleu de Thuy, the rabbit is kept for the most part simple in a sweet reduction, served with a side of vegetables and mashed potatoes. Just to make a point: there is nothing wrong with simple – let the food do all the talking, while you enjoy the meal. Another splendid dish is the sea bass and shrimp with brandade mashed potatoes and salsa verde sauce, which certainly wins my vote for presentation. The salsa verde packs a little bit of punch with the chilies, but in my opinion the hotter the better – burn, baby, burn.  Mellow yellow: The ground floor of Bleu de Thuy bistro has an appealing vibe for a martini at the bar or an intimate meal The sea bass and brandade is a great summer dish – fresh, light, colourful – and with the sweet mint from a mojito or any fruit juice is a fun combination that won’t leave you feeling lethargic after the meal. Keeping with the summer theme, I would also suggest the tuna carpaccio with passion fruit dressing and foie gras shavings as a starter or simply a quick pick-me-up at lunch. With slivers of green mango and carrot, the dish is sweet without burying the flavour of the raw tuna. Now back to the important issue: drinks. It’s always a promising sign when you order a martini and the bartender asks what type of gin you would like, shaken or stirred and whether you take it with olives or onions. Most bars at five-star hotels in HCM City and Ha Noi don’t even offer this very basic service, so to be quizzed nonchalantly about my drinking habits was certainly surprising and made me think even more highly of the restaurant. If a gin martini doesn’t get your juices flowing, then maybe some of the Venezuelan rum kept in stock will. A slug of the Pampero Anniversario after the rabbit is a splendid way to end a hearty dinner, or for that matter have as an aside to the chocolate mouse. Another upside for any foodie is the open-air layout of the kitchen, so from the dining area on the ground floor customers can watch the head chef and cooks at work. The only negative remark that I can possibly make about Bleu de Thuy is the lack of car parking, but as always in Ha Noi there is ample space for motorbikes. Bleu de Thuy has been around for over a year, but three months ago moved to its new location on Tong Duy Tan. In terms of cost, the food is about VND80,000-220,000, so expect to pay a bit more than the average city restaurant. Bleu de Thuy is a marvelous find in a city where Western, upscale dining is very much dominated by the hotels and serviced apartments, and because the owners are such a part of the restaurant this brilliant little bistro quickly becomes homey – you’re put at ease; you’re part of the scene; you’re there for more than just the food. — VNSBleu de Thuy Address: 28 Tong Duy Tan St, Ha Noi Tel.:            (04) 928-5900 Hours: 7am-midnight Comment: Class and comfort go hand in hand at this bodacious bistro. |